Essence Magazine’s editor, Susan Taylor, had a signature braid style of a simple part in the middle with the smallest cornrows on each side. Her braided style was worn with confidence and class when braids were rarely seen, especially in corporate spaces. As a young girl coming of age in Houston, braids were part of my signature style. My first day of college, I had my Essence Magazine, my radio set for the Tom Joyner morning show, and my braids. Of all the braiding styles Black women wear, the one that signifies our Blackness and our strength is the classic cornrow straight to the back!
I love me some braids! And just like Susan Taylor, the Dr. Kendra brand has been built around my signature braided style. However, as braiding styles have evolved, synthetic hair is sometimes used to create not only the artistry but also the length. I am beginning to wonder if we are getting away from the authenticity of the braided look and into a dangerous realm.
A news report about synthetic hair being potentially cancer-causing to Black women stopped me in my tracks: What’s on my head and in my hair? Is synthetic hair killing me? The video clips and reports are everywhere: alarming stories that even major network news outlets have picked up, interviewing Black women worried about their hairstyles that may be putting their lives at risk because of cancer-causing chemicals. As one Black woman stated, “I am paying for this to be put in my head, and I did not know what was in the synthetic hair!” Regardless of her concerns, I noticed that she continued to get her hair braided as she spoke to the interviewer.
What say you, Dr. Kendra? I tried to refrain from this conversation because I was annoyed that Black women have so much to deal with… please leave our hair alone and off of the news! Admittedly, I was on my soapbox and in my head about the fact that we always have to defend and discuss our bodies and our hair. It is exhausting! The CROWN Act, supported by Dove, was created by Black women so that we would not be discriminated against in our work spaces and schools based on our hair and hairstyles by which many Black women have found to be convenient time savers as we move from home to work, kids’ activities, and back home.
Where are Black women with our hair emotionally, physically, and financially? First of all, let me clarify that I cannot speak for all Black women, nor women with textured hair. But as Pepper Miller says, “Let Me Explain Black”, let me explain my perspective of the Black hair experience:
It is complicated. As young girls, it is a process to deal with. You learn as early as three that you gotta sit still and get your hair combed. This process usually involves smells of grease and a tap on the shoulder with a small comb. It also comes with some amount of pain, either from the pull of your part or the pressure from their knees holding your head still. I might be dating myself because today, little girls are sitting in beauty shop braiding chairs. But you get the picture: very few of us with textured hair have the luxury of “wake up and go” hair. Hence, hair plaiting and hair braiding for most little Black American girls are a part of life. It is a cultural symbol of pride and our uniqueness.
While I am personally biased, my medical curiosity as a Black physician won me over. I wanted to explore the research to get the facts for us! I read the consumer report on synthetic braiding hair, and I listened to the video report that outlined how our coveted hairstyles were cancer-causing. The consumer report was done on 10 very common synthetic hair brands found in most beauty supply stores that I have even used. Samples from these brands were sent to a lab, and all ten of the products resulted positively as being carcinogenic.
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Synthetic hair has been found to have benzene, a fume or gas, which, in high levels in the air, can cause cancers like leukemia, anemia, and blood-related cancers. At the same time, we can be exposed to these same toxins daily from cigarette smoke, fuel exhaust, and industrial emissions. Black people are the highest consumers of menthol cigarettes, which are addictive and have been shown to cause lung cancer.
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Lead has also been found in these synthetic hair products. I do find this concerning because more and more little girls are wearing synthetic braids, and they’ll put their hair in their mouths. This can be a source of lead exposure and must be monitored. Benzene and lead have both been associated with vague symptoms such as dizziness, allergic reactions, and malaise.
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Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are emitted from singed or heated flame and non-flame-retardant synthetic hair. VOCs and other airborne contaminants can mingle together to collectively affect indoor air quality. I do find this concerning, as VOCs can trigger an asthma attack or persistent cough if the braiding is done in a poorly ventilated or crowded building.
Is it time to pull my hair out? Literally, will I take down my current braided style? Personally, the report did not change my mind about my hairstyle. However, it did make me think critically about some serious questions as they relate to Black women and our hair.
When did our hair stop being our crown, worn with pride and enhancing our beauty? When did long flowing lace fronts and braids down to our ankles become our standard of beauty? We have to ask ourselves not only if synthetic hair is toxic, but if we, as Black women, have created a toxic environment for ourselves. Are we enslaved to a look that, while saving on time, is killing us physically, emotionally, and financially?
Black American women are the largest consumer group of synthetic hair, wigs, and extensions. This global market is projected to be over 11 billion dollars by 2029. This is driven, according to the report, by our desire to look like entertainers.
During one of my last trips to one of those staple African braiding shops, I saw the consumers, primarily Black American women, some wearing work uniforms and some with children, sit for hours upon hours getting their hair braided. I saw the workers, primarily African women, getting paid cash to do their hair. As I heard the prices quoted and saw the cash exchanges, I realized one shop could be grossing well over two hundred thousand dollars in a week! Those dollars aren’t being reinvested in spaces for our health and vitality. Instead, I saw both groups of women with visible signs of illness and health challenges, in an unhealthy environment! It made me wonder if hair braiding shops have become just as parasitic as liquor stores in Black communities. There is plenty of profit, but at what cost? I reached out to Barbara Deer, CEO of Metamorphosis Health LLC, to share her hair journey with me. She said in part,
“I started embracing my natural hair when my relaxed hair started to thin after years of perming and then adding permanent color. Once I learned how to take care of it and style it, I fell in love with my hair. Now I embrace it wholeheartedly.”
– Barbara Deer, M.A., CCC-SLP-L.
Emotionally, the love-hate thing we have with our ever-changing hair seems to be changing. The financial investment in our aesthetics, which includes changing our hair to fit a mood or an outfit, has evolved into a desire to become some other persona. The trends and upkeep can not only be expensive, but also addictive. Are we slipping into a depression about our crowns? Have our braids turned us into toxic and self-loathing women?
The joy I felt as a child when I felt a firm grip making my “puff-puff” indeed came from loving hands. Black beauticians who, quite frankly, have been undervalued and squeezed in this market, have traditionally served as counselors and support for so many young women coming of age; for our aunts, sisters, mothers, and grandmothers.
Many public health experts have learned the value of centering health messages for Black women by going to the places where they get their hair done. The message of this recent campaign about toxic exposures from synthetic braiding hair has us talking again about our health– and that’s a good thing.
While this awareness of exposure to synthetic hair toxins has merit, we need to make sure that we are prioritizing our entire health. Along with our looks, we must continue to invest more in our bodies to keep ourselves happy, healthy, and strong.
